My Kiwi Experience part 6: the final days
Before I'd left the UK I had high hopes for Queenstown, the adventure capital of New Zealand. I was doing none of the adrenaline fuelling activities though; partly for financial reasons, partly because I didn't fancy jumping off a 134 metre platform and getting thrown about whilst dangling upside down. Especially not after I'd seen a girl who'd done it and her bruised eyes - how's that even possible? Everybody had told me how great the place was though, including a random bloke as I entered LAX airport and told him that I was off to New Zealand. These expectations were definitely met when we arrived.
Surrounded by mountains and the bluest of lakes, Queenstown is a small but buzzing place with the addition of a jazz festival in the centre adding to the atmosphere (we timed that well). The scenery cannot be fully captured on a camera, nor can it be sufficiently described in words so I'm afraid to say that if you wish to witness it, you'll have to make a visit. It took us a while to find the right bars on our first night out as there were so many to choose from all with very different vibes and music. By the end of the night however, we'd found what we were looking for and danced away, stealing skittles from a birthday party and probably looking far more drunk than we actually were.
A good bar we found was called Cowboys and after an afternoon making the most of the unexpected sunshine and enjoying the jazz festival with a crate of cider, we headed there having consumed a few beverages in some bars beforehand to make the most of our backpacker discount. It certainly met my expectations and we'd hit jackpot with it being a bank holiday weekend in New Zealand because as well as the country tunes that we all love, there was also karaoke full of cheesy bangers including Bohemian Rhapsody which we all belted out. Probably the reasoning behind my sore throat the next morning.
The All Blacks were playing on our second night here so after we'd demolished the famous Fergburger by the lake, which frankly was delicious and brought so much happiness, we headed to an Irish bar and got well into the ruggers. So cultural. If I'm honest, I went mainly to see the Haka again which didn't fail to impress. It was a good game to watch despite the Wallabies taking the victory, making the five Aussies in the bar very happy. After this, we headed back which was partially down to the pricey drinks and also due to tiredness from our walk and being in a food coma from our burgers. This night was the first of all nights in New Zealand when we actually went for one drink. Not one jug, not one bottle, one single drink - impressive. It's only taken us four weeks to master.
As far as alcohol free activities go, we did a fair bit. Our first day was spent climbing Queenstown Hill which we thought was a short walk until we began the never ending trail up the steepest of inclines. "Just a gentle, quick walk", the receptionist assured us. Gentle it most certainly was not. I'm not the fittest runner in the race but I'm pretty sure that immediately becoming out of breath is abnormal. Then, about half way up my heart was hurting - and I mean physically hurting - which again I feel is not meant to happen. It was tough, but three and a half hours later we made it to what looked like the summit and the best photography spot. We spent too much time up their taking boomerangs, feeding birds and having food before we descended. The views were incredible.
We also took ourselves on an actual gentle but gusty stroll around the lake, attempting to beat the storm coming in fast over the mountains. We just missed it luckily and even got to see some of Queenstowns beautiful gardens, looking especially dashing in spring at the end of our walk as well as a tiny spot of shopping to finish off.
The food was also incredible, all extremely unhealthy, but incredible. Obviously I highly recommend the traditional Fergburgers. Huge burgers filled with goodness. Mine had the addition of pineapple and streaky bacon - yum! I was told that Devil Burgers are actually better but sadly never got chance (or room in my stomach) to try one. For those of you with a sweet tooth, definitely head next door to Mrs Ferg's Gelato and Sorbet parlour or the Fergbaker bakery and try some of the delights in there all for a reasonable price.
Another recommendation, which was conveniently placed right next door to our hostel, was Balls & Bangles. All of the bagel fillings you could think of (pulled pork and BBQ sauce being my favourite) and a counter filled with a heart attack on a donut but also looking divine. The donuts were soaked in all kinds of sugary scrumptiousness and topped with biscuits, Oreos and everything that's bad for you. So yeah, as well as copious amounts of drinking places and stunning sights, Queenstown also has a lot to offer on the food front.
One day which stood out for me was my trip to Milford Sound. Though I couldn't stay awake during the long drive, the weather wasn't great and my pitta wrap was up there with the scenery, Mildford Sound was insane. The low cloud added to the feel and the rain meant that there were a crazy amount of water falls cascading down the steep cliffs. The drive was another which I can't describe sufficiently with words and though I tried to video it, it still didn't fully capture the beauty and uniqueness of the landscape. When we caught our boat into the technically wrongly named sound (it's actually a fjord...I've learnt a lot and feel very intelligent) the scenes just kept getting better to the greatest part when we drove right up to a fall and got absolutely soaked - much fun.
After our thirteen hour day we came home, showered and got bang on it for our final night in Queenstown just to ensure that we were horrifically hungover for our early start to Lake Tekapo the following morning. Great idea...not. I was not feeling good at all which was mostly self inflicted but I was also developing a sore throat, a nice gift to bring home with me. The drive made this illness much more bearable though, I'd even go as far to say that it was the best drive yet. We stopped for lunch by Lake Pukaki looking at Mount Cook out in the distance, New Zealand's highest mountain. It was incredible and the weather couldn't have been better.
A group of us decided to climb to the summit of Mount John during the afternoon of our stay in Lake Tekapo and with the weather being perfect, we had no excuse not to get out in the open and experience the wonderful views. This walk turned out to be longer and tougher than expected, testing my fitness levels once again. We made it though, starving by the end and more than ready for a chilled and early night after catching the sunset on the beach.
I had little expectations for Christchurch and was prepared to feel a hint of sadness due to the obvious remains and devastation from the huge earthquake in 2011. This is why I'd mostly planned to sort things for my onwards flights and do chores such as washing while there. However, our bus driver was right when she said that the major improvements can be noticed in the past six months and I thought parts of it looked quite pretty so I'm glad we had time to explore as well. We started with the food market which pleases me no matter where I am in the world and then chilled for the afternoon playing games in a park. It was a strange destination as it was the last for most people so a lot of goodbyes were said. The amount of times I said "safe travels" and "I hope I see you again one day" was emotionally exhausting.
We spent our first night staying in an ex jail which was a very strange experience. One cell was left exactly how it was with prisoners drawings all over the walls. When we entered our designated cell for the night I didn't want to close the secure door and didn't bring myself to until we absolutely needed to. I'm glad we only stayed the one night as it was so real that by the end of our stay I was questioning if I'd actually committed a crime. It added some excitement to our stay here in my final destination though.
More excitement came when I tried to check in to my hostel for my second night in Christchurch. I thought I'd booked YMCA with my friend and where anyone else from the Kiwi Experience who's still around would be staying. The glum look on the receptionists face told me otherwise. No, instead I'd mixed YMCA with YHA and booked to stay there. My friend laughed and I thought to myself 'will I ever grow out of these blonde moments?' Probably not. We had a lovely final evening in this country though, with a few drinks because it'd be rude not to.
It's been a pleasure to explore New Zealand with the Kiwi Experience and I wouldn't change an ounce of my time in one of the most beautiful countries that I've ever been too. Now for some heat before travelling home - Australia here I come.
Things I've learnt:
-Kiwis say "wee" too, it's not only the Irish and the Scottish
-'Fergburgers' are a taste of happiness
-beginning to think Kiwi birds are mythical creatures
-it is possible just to go for one drink
-I wouldn't go far as to say I've "found myself" but I have discovered that I prefer tea to coffee. It's a close competition though.
-New Zealand has the cutest dogs, we've met some brilliant ones along the way
-there's packing then there's "real packing". Real packing is like your Mum would do, flight packing. A right pain.
-apparently I look Irish?!
-New Zealand is one of the most unique and stunning places I've been to
-goodbyes are REALLY sad
-I'll be forever 'blonde'
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